Thom Browne is a tricky one to review, especially succinctly. On one hand, his acumen for showmanship is second to none. He’s a legitimate entertainer in a sea of runway sameness (he also custom-fitted Michelle Obama’s navy dress and coat for the swearing-in of her husband yesterday — and that’s certainly something to be proud of). Yet on the flip-side, some are of the mindset that such spectacle runs the risk of trumping substance. Yes, Browne’s cropped tailor-made suits and chic basics (his red, white, and blue trimmed button-downs are becoming almost as ubiquitous as Ralph Lauren cable knits) are keystones of his brand, but it would be nice to see a collection exploring wearable options — akin, actually, to his women’s pre-fall ‘13 collection.
Posts Tagged ‘Fall/Winter 2013’
Lanvin’s menswear presentation in Paris over the weekend parlayed a feeling of innocuousness that rendered it somewhat tame. However, the house’s ultra-luxe, deshabille methodology and craftsmanship kept the collection afloat.
Hedi Slimane’s debut men’s collection for Saint Laurent did little to thaw the ice that spread after his less-than-stunning premiere women’s show last season. This was the designer in full hero-worship mode, his icons the hyper-thin rock gods of the indie music scene, and it felt just as unoriginal.
Berlin’s burgeoning Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week this week veered (surprisingly) toward the sophisticated and refined — even ladylike. But worry not, the city’s reputation for cutting-edge irreverence shone through as well. Here, ARTINFO picks our five savviest fall ‘13 looks… (more…)
Riccardo Tisci’s fall ‘13 menswear collection for Givenchy, shown today in Paris, started out clean and promising — but then proceeded into spookier territory. Interwoven throughout all of it was a vaguely kinky darkness, replete with heavy leather parkas tied around the waist.
Here we are in the interim between Nicolas Ghesquière’s exit from and Alexander Wang’s arrival at Balenciaga. And like most things in gray areas, the house’s fall ‘13 show was a bit of a wash.
Belgium’s Ann Demeulemeester rarely strays from her signature aesthetic, having clearly found her niche in some deep triangular vortex between the goth, the femme and the dandy. If you love Ann, you’ll love today’s show out of Paris, but on-the-fencers might well feel underwhelmed.
Dries van Noten’s fall ‘13 men’s collection lost the cohesiveness and evaded the direct 1990s references of his knockout spring ‘13 women’s lineup — falling, unfortunately, a bit short of expectations in doing so.
Rick Owens isn’t really one to look at if you’re wanting variety, although the Paris-by-way-of-California enfant terrible would probably argue the opposite. His show today was essentially a remix of his greatest hits. Belted wrap coats, dramatically high collars, elongated tanks, asymmetric leather jackets and moon boots rounded out the lineup, but there were two standouts to take note of: a skinnier leg and the use of fur.
Kim Jones’ fall ‘13 presentation today for Louis Vuitton retained the ultra-luxe adventurism apparent in his previous work at the house, yet it also felt more grown-up in its decadence, recalling a gentlemen’s club in old-world Kathmandu or an Abercrombie & Kent trek up K2.