Nothing could be more quintessentially autumn-friendly than a biker jacket. And from what we’ve seen at New York Fashion Week, fall ‘13 will offer up plenty of quirky and modified new versions of the tried-and-true wardrobe staple. Here’s a kickstart to get you revving.
As New York Fashion Week barrels on (are we there yet?), gray, in its umpteenth tones, has emerged as the color of choice—or rather, anti-color. From textured dresses to tech-wear befitting the slopes of Bormio, heather, dove, charcoal, and more will play a key role in many a fall wardrobe, for men and women alike. (more…)
Jean Paul Gaultier’s woman for spring ‘13 couture is, apparently, the sort of client who favors the conscious celebration of bad taste — think western fringed jackets, bra-revealing bombers, and gilded snakeskin trenches. Where Gaultier has so often taken the louche and the decadent and spun them with elegant, eccentric, only-in-Paris effect, this time his effort fell flat — its joie de vivre eviscerated by its aimlessness.
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Picciolo have, by now, firmly established themselves as worthy and innovative successors at Valentino. Their couture presentation this week was awe-inspiring, not merely for the grandiose beauty of the gowns, but for the sheer amount of time dedicated to the craft —nay, art.
Giambattista Valli is a master at churning out buzz-worthy designs while remaining largely out of the public eye, which isn’t to say he doesn’t dress his share of attention-grabbing celebrities. Yet where Valli is less a visible personality in the media, he may in fact be more talented than many of his couturier peers. His spring ‘13 collection was an exercise in true, original beauty.
Raf Simons presented his sophomore couture collection for Christian Dior this week, and the stakes were high — yet so was the subsequent praise. However, there’s a sheen of tentativeness wrapped around the mostly clean and airy aesthetic he’s bringing to the house. Where Dior’s dynamic yet disgraced previous designer John Galliano was a flame-thrower, Simons is more like a Gerhard Richter candle — beautiful, but flickering and transparent.
Karl Lagerfeld often overproduces, and he clearly enjoys indulging in Chanel’s seemingly limitless budget — a near-mechanical pursuit of the decadence inherent in fashion shows. The fabled city of Atlantis, an Edinburgh castle, and Venice’s cool-lit Lido at sunset have all served as extravagant settings for his fantasy lands. And for spring ‘13 couture, Herr Karl brought us deep into a German forest, by way of Paris’ Grand Palais.
Thom Browne is a tricky one to review, especially succinctly. On one hand, his acumen for showmanship is second to none. He’s a legitimate entertainer in a sea of runway sameness (he also custom-fitted Michelle Obama’s navy dress and coat for the swearing-in of her husband yesterday — and that’s certainly something to be proud of). Yet on the flip-side, some are of the mindset that such spectacle runs the risk of trumping substance. Yes, Browne’s cropped tailor-made suits and chic basics (his red, white, and blue trimmed button-downs are becoming almost as ubiquitous as Ralph Lauren cable knits) are keystones of his brand, but it would be nice to see a collection exploring wearable options — akin, actually, to his women’s pre-fall ‘13 collection.
Lanvin’s menswear presentation in Paris over the weekend parlayed a feeling of innocuousness that rendered it somewhat tame. However, the house’s ultra-luxe, deshabille methodology and craftsmanship kept the collection afloat.
Hedi Slimane’s debut men’s collection for Saint Laurent did little to thaw the ice that spread after his less-than-stunning premiere women’s show last season. This was the designer in full hero-worship mode, his icons the hyper-thin rock gods of the indie music scene, and it felt just as unoriginal.
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