Ann Binlot
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Archive for the ‘Eye on the Runway’ Category

New Additions to Couture Fashion Week Announced

A look from Serkan Cura SS12

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Accessories of the Week: Givenchy, Miu Miu and Stella McCartney

Of all the visually arresting accessories to emerge from the Spring 2014 collections at Paris Fashion Week, special mention must go to the following three.

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Runway Trend Alert: the Motorcycle Jacket, Reinterpreted

Nothing could be more quintessentially autumn-friendly than a biker jacket. And from what we’ve seen at New York Fashion Week, fall ‘13 will offer up plenty of quirky and modified new versions of the tried-and-true wardrobe staple. Here’s a kickstart to get you revving.

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Runway Trend Alert: 50+ Shades of Gray


As New York Fashion Week barrels on (are we there yet?), gray, in its umpteenth tones, has emerged as the color of choice—or rather, anti-color. From textured dresses to tech-wear befitting the slopes of Bormio, heather, dove, charcoal, and more will play a key role in many a fall wardrobe, for men and women alike. (more…)

Eye on the Runway: Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Spring 2013

Jean Paul Gaultier’s woman for spring ‘13 couture is, apparently, the sort of client who favors the conscious celebration of bad taste — think western fringed jackets, bra-revealing bombers, and gilded snakeskin trenches. Where Gaultier has so often taken the louche and the decadent and spun them with elegant, eccentric, only-in-Paris effect, this time his effort fell flat — its joie de vivre eviscerated by its aimlessness.

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Eye on the Runway: Valentino Couture Spring 2013

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Picciolo have, by now, firmly established themselves as worthy and innovative successors at Valentino. Their couture presentation this week was awe-inspiring, not merely for the grandiose beauty of the gowns, but for the sheer amount of time dedicated to the craft —nay, art.

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Eye on the Runway: Giambattista Valli Couture Spring 2013

Giambattista Valli is a master at churning out buzz-worthy designs while remaining largely out of the public eye, which isn’t to say he doesn’t dress his share of attention-grabbing celebrities. Yet where Valli is less a visible personality in the media, he may in fact be more talented than many of his couturier peers. His spring ‘13 collection was an exercise in true, original beauty.

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Eye on the Runway: Christian Dior Couture Spring 2013

Raf Simons presented his sophomore couture collection for Christian Dior this week, and the stakes were high — yet so was the subsequent praise. However, there’s a sheen of tentativeness wrapped around the mostly clean and airy aesthetic he’s bringing to the house. Where Dior’s dynamic yet disgraced previous designer John Galliano was a flame-thrower, Simons is more like a Gerhard Richter candle — beautiful, but flickering and transparent.

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Eye on the Runway: Chanel Couture Spring 2013

Karl Lagerfeld often overproduces, and he clearly enjoys indulging in Chanel’s seemingly limitless budget — a near-mechanical pursuit of the decadence inherent in fashion shows. The fabled city of Atlantis, an Edinburgh castle, and Venice’s cool-lit Lido at sunset have all served as extravagant settings for his fantasy lands. And for spring ‘13 couture, Herr Karl brought us deep into a German forest, by way of Paris’ Grand Palais.

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Eye on the Runway: Thom Browne Fall/Winter 2013 Men’s

Thom Browne is a tricky one to review, especially succinctly. On one hand, his acumen for showmanship is second to none. He’s a legitimate entertainer in a sea of runway sameness (he also custom-fitted Michelle Obama’s navy dress and coat for the swearing-in of her husband yesterday — and that’s certainly something to be proud of). Yet on the flip-side, some are of the mindset that such spectacle runs the risk of trumping substance. Yes, Browne’s cropped tailor-made suits and chic basics (his red, white, and blue trimmed button-downs are becoming almost as ubiquitous as Ralph Lauren cable knits) are keystones of his brand, but it would be nice to see a collection exploring wearable options — akin, actually, to his women’s pre-fall ‘13 collection.

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