Riccardo Tisci’s fall ‘13 menswear collection for Givenchy, shown today in Paris, started out clean and promising — but then proceeded into spookier territory. Interwoven throughout all of it was a vaguely kinky darkness, replete with heavy leather parkas tied around the waist.
Working strictly in a grayscale palette, the catwalk opened with a run of smart monochrome charcoal suits, anchored by loafers banded in thick cuffs of silver. Then things started to get a little weird — especially so with a print motif showing a long-haired man, head bowed and held as if in trauma, and a handful of chopped-and-sewn, football-inspired bombers. Bizarre.
However, praise must be given to Tisci for pushing his aesthetic forward (without turning to man-skirts), especially so with a series of A-line zippered pieces that closed the show. Otherwise, this was a little bleak for our tastes.
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Image: Pierre Verdy/AFP/Getty Images