Ann Binlot
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Eye on the Runway: Dries Van Noten Fall/Winter 2013 Men’s

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Dries van Noten’s fall ‘13 men’s collection lost the cohesiveness and evaded the direct 1990s references of his knockout spring ‘13 women’s lineup — falling, unfortunately, a bit short of expectations in doing so.

Van Noten’s theme here was a kind of louche, lethargic form of dress, albeit formalized by way of paisleys aplenty and diaphanous sheers with chandelier embroideries. He showed a full spectrum of options — fuzzy knits, bathrobe coats, delicate bombers fringed in upholstery tassels, and a unique iteration of denim, shellacked to look like leather and grommeted all to hell. Its vibe spanned 1960s to ’70s, yet with all things Dries, there’s no easy way to filter out the cacophony.

Where the designer can, and often does, hit home runs with his unexpected color and pattern pairings, here they read gauche and all over the map — and perhaps that was the point.

–Nicholas Remsen

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Images: Patrick Kovarik/AFP/Getty Images

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