Belgium’s Ann Demeulemeester rarely strays from her signature aesthetic, having clearly found her niche in some deep triangular vortex between the goth, the femme and the dandy. If you love Ann, you’ll love today’s show out of Paris, but on-the-fencers might well feel underwhelmed.
Working predominantly in a palette of black and white, all the to-be-expected Demeulemeester cues were present and accounted for: Ichabod Crane-like waistcoats and raven feathers, sleeves elongated, pantlegs either bladed or billowing. Fans of her distinct footwear will be pleased — a knee-high lace-up boot anchored the show, in both patent and matte iterations.
Yet where was the new? Demeulemeester sent out a number of models in net-veiled bowler hats — fitting for Dazed and Confused but less so for the day-to-day. A baroque clover print found its way onto blazers and a pair of pants, but it was nothing to scream and shout about. Overall, this was Demeulemeester at her swashbuckling strongest, if swashbuckling is your thing.
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Images: Pierre Verdy/AFP/Getty Images