Raf Simons is in a privileged industry position; he sits prim and pretty atop his lucrative Dior throne, the financial security of which surely allows him to loosen the reins of his eponymous men’s label, pushing it evermore into that Raf-ian headspace you either love or hate. At his just concluded show in Paris, Simons let his imagination fly in a half retro, half minimalist and sporty vein (the second half his forte), via overextended sleeves and thin-as-thin-can-be cuts on some damn impressive outerwear. Less memorable were his listless knits and pointy collars, both of which were just a little too self-conscious to appreciate.
Let’s start with the good. Simons proffered a few examples of double-breasted blazers, all barred across the chest with what we assume are detachable fabric bands — he really knows how to execute a silhouette with basic geometry. The same praise can be applied to the aforementioned topcoats, one in particular: a zippered black and white iteration, over sleeves so tight they looked like lycra. Yet where Simons ventured nostalgic with elongated collar-work, intentionally dated color schemes and formless trousers, the collection lost some of its glue.
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Images via nowfashion.com