Milan saw a busy weekend of men’s shows, spanning the traditional (Burberry Prorsum’s “I Heart Classic” show) to the decadent (Roberto Cavalli). Yet there were three standouts worth highlighting: Bottega Veneta, Prada, and Missoni.
Tomas Maier stuck to his guns at Bottega Veneta, producing an exceptional, ultra-luxe wardrobe anchored around a simpler-than-usual, blacker-than-usual aesthetic. The show’s first five looks were nothing but black, leading up to a sophisticated palette of rose, gray and wheatgrass. Scarves under blazers were a highlight, as was a high-collared green-camel coat, capturing to a T the house’s MO.
Miuccia Prada once again put forth a surprising and thought-provoking lineup, this time in a casual vein. Think untucked shirts beneath colorful sweaters, outerwear in varying shapes and lengths, chunky leathers and contrast-collar coats. Especially directional it was not, yet there were elements of the house’s quirky flair, such as ruffles down the front of gingham-checked shirts. One thing is for sure, and a rarity to boot: 99% of the collection was completely wearable, possibly insinuating a push for more salable ready-to-wear.
Missoni went ahead as planned with its fall ’13 show, despite the mystery surrounding the disappearance of CEO Vittorio’s plane off of Venezuela. The collection, as it turns out, was one of the label’s strongest men’s presentations in seasons. Not only were there the family-owned label’s trademark knits in every imaginable format, but also experimentations with stiff jeans, varied silhouettes ranging from formal to street, and a number of covetable men’s bags. One workwear look, denim-over-denim under a peaked-lapel overcoat, was the clear knockout.
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Images (l-r): Pier Marco Tacca/Getty Images; Giuseppe Cacace/AFP/Getty Images; Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images