Ann Binlot
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Silhouettes

Eye on the Runway: Giles Deacon Pre-Fall 2013

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Giles Deacon was feeling just the tiniest bit freaky in his pre-fall 2013 collection, in which his model posed in front of a gridded and magenta-dyed Ansel Adams Yosemite backdrop — apparently, the inspiration came from vintage fetish magazines. Yet the clothes were in no way outwardly kinky, nor outdoorsy. The London designer was going for fullness — maxi-skirts, flowing dresses — ultimately proving to be a very adult (and potentially very commercial) capsule.

Never one to pass up on look-at-me novelty, Deacon incorporated a lo-fi painterly scribble print over grayscale Teton landscapes, and rather decadently so in a long-sleeved, full-bodied dress evoking a kind of artistic brutality through its graphic wonderland. Other examples included black and patterned silk caftans and coats in stretched polyamide. It was all very ’70s (and in a way, a touch Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent), yet it looked fresh and totally wearable for a midday’s lunch at Dover Street Market or a nighttime traipse at Little House.

–Nicholas Remsen

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Photos Courtesy of Giles Deacon

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