Eye on the Runway: Richard Nicoll Fall/Winter 2013 Men’s

Richard Nicoll has, in his career, always played an innocuously polarizing role. He has legions of fans who love and adore the simplicity and femme-urbanity of his designs, yet others wave off his lack of… let’s say, impact. Such skepticism is indeed justified, for Nicoll’s designs, while soundly conceived and fabricated, consistently lack in clout.

For his sophomore men’s collection, shown yesterday in London, Nicoll didn’t do much to reverse this conception. The show did find some street-cred in baggy bad-boy trousers and there was lovely, uncomplicated edging on coats — not quite raw, but certainly fine. Otherwise, knit-capped boys in lavenders and slates shuffled down the catwalk. There simply wasn’t much magnetism here. A heather-gray jumpsuit was the show’s sole double-take look, certainly worthy of a raised eyebrow, but one outfit does not the runway save.

–Nicholas Remsen

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Images: Richard Nicoll Fall/Winter 2013/Stuart Wilson/Getty Images