With pre-fall 2013, Riccardo Tisci forwent the refined femininity he found for spring to reference his previous — and polarizing — resort collection, its influence evident in the new season’s geometric patchwork of neutral blacks, tans, and browns.
But the mood was more masculine this time, not to mention moo-dier, thanks to a literal interpretation of cowhide. As usual, Tisci’s silhouette is long and lean, with lots of tunics and the skirt-over-pants combos favored by friend of the house Kanye West. And also as usual, the tuxedo jackets and slim-cut pants (sometimes embellished) are divine.
Dresses for day have ruffles and favor a one-shoulder silhouette. Tight skirts ruched at the center are dressed down with sweatshirts or athletic sandals. There are some long skirts for evening in black and blue, with spring’s ruffles gathered at the waist, but their high slits reveal sturdy flat shoes underneath, any overt sex appeal tempered by priestly buttoned-up collars.
And, of course, it wouldn’t be Givenchy without an entry-level statement piece. This time it’s collaged sweatshirts reading “American Dream” that are sure to have registers ringing. If this is Tisci’s American dream, we don’t want him to wake up any time soon.
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Images Courtesy of Givenchy