Eye on the Runway: Céline Pre-Fall 2013

From the very first double-breasted suit, it was clear that there was a new wind blowing at Céline. If Phoebe Philo had relaxed the label’s silhouette for spring, it seems that now she’s doing the same with its attitude.

The collection opened with a trio of navy power suits of slack proportions with pearl buttons and stiff white dress shirts. From there, it dissolved into a myriad of ideas, some more successful than others, and some, such as a printed sari-like dress, interesting on their own, but completely out of place. Another one-off was an oversized coat in fuzzy teddy bear material, one of the better iterations of an emerging trend.

Among the season’s shapes were sweet skirts that hit girlishly below the knee, an easy addition to the working wardrobe. A pair of suits with slim waists and exaggerated hips looked interesting on the models, but will probably prove more problematic in real life. Less successful were a vaguely S&M leather peplum top and the combination of larger-than-life belt buckles with extra-high collars, which verged on cartoonish.

Shoes came high and low, and most were covered in an interesting spat-like metal guard. Boater hats, however, are more likely to leave a girl scratching her head. But amid the curious moments there was plenty of promise, and hints of ideas to come — one of the reasons we’re always willing to follow Philo, even in a rare misstep.

–Heather Corcoran

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Images Courtesy of Céline