The spring runways were filled with warm-weather leather in all cuts and colors — not your standard biker fare. There were two takes on the trend that caught our attention, one that veered bold and boxy, and something a little quieter.
Skirting the Issue
Perforated and patched, fringed, or slashed, designers went bold with slouchy, oversized and embellished pieces. From Proenza Schouler‘s textural technicolor mash-ups to Rodarte‘s rocker vibes, and on to Alexander Wang‘s baseball-inspired kit, the look obscures curves in favor of a more androgynous silhouette. See also: the oversized ’80s look at Balmain, the body-skirting separates at Marni, and Mulberry‘s minimal white biker.
On the other end of the spectrum, designers used leather to reinvent classic ladylike shapes in a rainbow of colors, including the crispest, cleanest white. From Miu Miu‘s pastel patent overcoats to black leather dresses at Derek Lam and Jason Wu that could have just as easily been made out of silk (but wouldn’t have been half as cool), the material elevated simple cuts for the new season. See also: Reed Krakoff’s metallic embossed skirts, the simple leather slip dresses at Valentino, the sculpted capelet at Céline, and Dion Lee’s all-white skirt suit.
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Images: Rodarte, Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images North America; Proenza Schouler, Peter Michael Dills/Getty Images; Alexander Wang, Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images North America; Derek Lam, Mark Von Holden/Getty Images; Miu Miu, Patrick Kovarik/AFP/Getty Images; Jason Wu, Slaven Vlasic/Getty Images