For his first-ever Pre-Fall collection, the look is cool and urban, offering a polished take on rock and roll. His muse is tougher than she was for spring, wearing leather as T-shirts, jackets, and layered skirts, and pairing it with neat buttoned-up oxfords, combat boots, or creepers with bobby socks. The overall effect is a contemporary New York spin on English rude boy style — it’s easy to imagine The Specials on the jukebox at the Stonewall Inn shoot for the ska-inflected collection.
The season’s sporty checked jacquard, in black and chartreuse, is applied to slim trousers and simple dresses, while considered details update the ubiquitous varsity jacket and add interest to kicky shorts and a divinely covetable sweatshirt. A pair of long silhouettes in leather — one a T-shirt with roomy, floor-skimming pants (left), the other an easy gown of collaged colors and sheer — are the true winners of the collection and the season’s most original takes.
Simkhai has only been around a few seasons, but he’s already developing a signature in his strength for graphic dressing. His is one girl group we’d definitely like to join.
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Images Courtesy of Jonathan Simkhai