Eye on the Runway: Proenza Schouler Pre-Fall 2013

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler have found the fashion equivalent of alchemy. With their magic equation, the pair manages to experiment enough to keep fans eagerly awaiting each season’s new surprises, without losing a clear, consistent message.

For pre-fall they updated their vocabulary of shapes and staples with a graphic new take on black and white, plus a stunning print rendered from photos of Fiji’s caverns. Left to other, less-deft hands, the digital print can become something of a gimmick, but here it transforms into a metallic-effect abstraction, beautiful regardless of its origin. Likewise, the fresh and graphic riff on the brand’s name was the exact opposite of outré logo-mania.

The collection’s standout pieces reach back to those familiar Proenza tropes that have made the brand New York’s leading young voice. The flirty miniskirts, tough-yet-polished leather jackets, and overcoats that close diagonally across the chest are nothing new for the brand, but that doesn’t make us crave them any less.

–Heather Corcoran

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Images Courtesy Proenza Schouler